I'd like to know where the locals go to get the best ribollita, that delicious Tuscan bean soup. Also, where's the best place for gelato in Florence?

Posted By Joe Routon on August 27, 2010, 8:08 PM

Are the little buses local transportation? Why aren't they included in the ticket for local transportation?

With all of the art museums, is there anything for a family with small children?

Where to see and be seen or go for after dinner drinks?

Where to shop for local wares like leather?

Posted By Elizabeth Henry on August 28, 2010, 5:09 PM

I would like to know how you got your job. Sounds like a dream!!

Posted By Ann on August 28, 2010, 8:49 PM

I'd like to know how to manage car rental returns in a city center that doesn't encourage cars! We will be traveling there in September and returning our car after a stay in Tuscany. I'm staying right in Florence and so I don't want to go out to the airport to return the car only to have to pay to travel back to the city center. Even more so I don't want to get a hefty fine in the mail for drving where I should not. Confusing!!!

Posted By LeeAnna Kostuck on August 29, 2010, 1:43 PM

Hey Kate,

Get the scoop on the best enotecas in Florence. Thanks!

Posted By Steve From TravelingProfessor.com on August 29, 2010, 9:37 PM

Hi Kate,
I'd like to know the proper etiquette around meals and ordering different courses. What if you only want 2 courses or some combination with shared plate? Does this vary from lunch to dinner? What if you only want dessert?
Thanks,

Posted By Jane on August 30, 2010, 11:45 AM

We want to take a family trip for 6 adults to Florence area in April, 2011 and participate in some cooking classes - any recommendations?

Posted By Jennifer on August 30, 2010, 2:14 PM

What to teenagers do in and around Florence? I will be taking my daughters there in June and want them to have fun memories!

Posted By Jeannie on August 30, 2010, 3:17 PM

Is the Piazale Michelangelo high above the city with its panoramic view over the Arno River (looking across to the cathedral) still a good place to safely park your rental car without paying anything? Tour buses used to park here and cars were safe to leave, but that was a few years back. Also, is the cafe in the gardens behind the Pitti Palace Museum still a great place for an outdoor cappucino break during a day of walking the city?

Posted By John on August 30, 2010, 3:43 PM

Hi Kate,

As a former expat, living in Milan, Italy for 7 years, maybe I can save you a little time and help you out on a few of these questions. Regarding "ribollita" - this is a dish found almost everywhere in Firenze, but is really a specialty of the osteria or trattoria classification of restaurants. Although I've rarely had one that wasn't really good, most recipes will have some variations so the BEST is afterall, a matter of taste. The only thing I would avoid, unless you have a very good recommendation, would be a restaurant which advertises "menu turistico". I'm not saying they are ALL bad, but some can be horrible and a rip-off as well. Even these have their place for those on a very restricted budget, but it would be best to try and get a recommendation from someone trustworthy.

I really never have had a bad gelato in all of Italy, and although there are many newer, trendy places, my money is still on Vivoli for gelato in Florence.

Regarding returning rental cars: Although the new centro street closures had already begun in November, 2009 when I was last in Florence, I found that not ALL streets and piazzas are closed. That being said, were it I, I would make arrangements before leaving the U.S. to return the car to a location (train station, perhaps?) near the city center and then take a taxi to return to my hotel. Taxis in Italy are very inexpensive compared to most major cities in the U.S. Besides, who really wants to navigate their car through Florence even if the pertinent streets are open to traffic? I am a very experienced driver in all of the cities in Italy and unless you are experienced, it really just isn't worth the probable frustration.

Lastly, my pet peeve about fellow Americans in Italy and etiquette. Food and otherwise. But first food. The rules have relaxed considerably in the last 10 or so years, but unless you are at one of the aforementioned "menu turistico" eateries, they do still exist. Although 3 courses is preferred at really nice establishments, these days it is acceptable to eat only 2 courses as long as they are a combination of antipasti (appetizer), primi (soup, pasta or rice) and secondi (main dish, usually meat or fish). For example, you might choose an antipasto and a secondo, an antipasto and a primo, or if you are really hungry, a primo and a secondo. To complete a meal with a third course, you may add a course of fruit, cheese or dessert. However, the only one of these items that would be acceptable as a second course (after an antipasto or a primo) would be the cheese course. If you are determined to only order one course, then it must be a secondo or main dish. All that being said, because of so many tourists in Florence, you will be tolerated no matter what in most all establishments that are not considered "fine dining". At a pizzeria you may select only the pizza or a pizza with a salad and/or dessert to follow, but each person should have their own pizza - no sharing and no doggie bags in Italy. (OK, the doggie bag thing is changing, but only at really trendy places) Unless the pizza is from a street vendor, it should be eaten with a fork and knife, at least until you get near the crust. Now, except for places like Enoteca Pinchiorri, lunch can be an entirely different matter altogether. One course only is definitely fine if it is a primo or secondo and pretty much ok if it is a heavier antipasto. If you only want a salad or a panino, then go to a bar. If you only want dessert, go to the bar, the gelateria or the pasticceria. They are the only places where it is acceptable to request only dessert. Or a tea room during the daytime. The thing that most restaurant owners/staff dislike the most about Americans is that they are always in a hurry at mealtimes - especially to get the check. It pains them that the meal is not looked upon as an event and it should last upwards of two hours for maximum digestion. Italians also consider it extremely rude to have the check before it is requested. If it is brought too quickly it signifies that they want you to leave. The more they like you, the longer you may have to wait. This is really a joke, but Italians say that the only good excuse for getting it quickly is if it is something that impacts your children. Actually, using your children is good for almost any excuse. Even if they are imaginary. Speaking of the check reminds me of the gratuity. Almost every American that I know thinks that if it says service included it means that you do not need to leave a tip. Technically, this is correct, and in Italy the servers receive a living wage for their work. However, something extra is always appreciated and the typical middle class Italian will leave a small sum, usually around 5%, if they have been well served. And especially if it is a place they plan to return. Do NOTE, there are some restaurants that will add an additional 10-15% service charge to the check. This will be stated on the menu and on the check. In this case, no additional tip need be left. My last food related pet peeve is parmesan cheese. If it is supposed to be served with what you ordered, they will bring it. PLEASE don't ask for parmeggiano when ordering anything with fish.

And my final etiquette related pet peeve. The word CIAO. Everyone knows that this means hello or goodbye, kind of like aloha. However, in Italy it is only used in the very familiar sense. (Think "hey, dude".) So, even if you have seen Rick Steves saying ciao to every shopkeeper that he encounters, don't do it unless you are speaking to a child, someone in your family, someone you have known a very long time, your age or younger, a colleague or someone who says ciao to you first. Instead, learn to say Buon Giorno or Buona Serra (after 4:00 pm). Buona Notte is only used very late when going back to your home/hotel for bed.

And lastly, the Italians are the most warm, gracious, caring people that I have ever encountered, so even if you mess up big time, they will just put it down to your being an ignorant tourist and all will be forgiven.

WOW, sorry this is so long. But could go on forever with little (or no) encouragement.

Have a wonderful trip. I am once again living in the U.S. and am very jealous of everyone fortunate enough to be traveling to Italy.

Christy Guidry

Posted By Christy Guidry on August 30, 2010, 9:06 PM

I would love to spend a couple weeks in Florence. I've heard that Italy is one of the best places to travel for those who need to eat gluten-free, that a majority of restaurants will be able to accommodate diners with celiac disease. Wondering, is that true in Florence?

Also, if staying for a couple weeks, is renting an apartment better than a hotel or b&b?

Thanks, Kate!!

Posted By Lori Smith on August 31, 2010, 12:22 AM

Christy, With the last name of Guidry, do you happen to be from Louisiana?

Julie Gauthier

Posted By Julie Gauthier on August 31, 2010, 4:29 AM

Christy, that is great info you have kindly provided. I also had the pleasure of living in Italy...(Venice) for 3 years and I have been lucky to be traveling to Italy for the past 10 years since I opened my travel consultancy which specializes in Italy. A couple of points I would like to add to help with the recent posts:

Food: if you are in the mood for only 1 course, then it is also acceptable to only order a pasta dish. Many italians choose this as their food of choice for lunch (with possibly a small salad served last after the pasta). There are also some casual eating establishments that serve an "insalatone", a 'big salad'

Also, Florence is known to have "Self Service" eateries (similar to a cafeteria) where there is prepared food (salads, pastas, antipasti, hot & cold dishes) displayed in cases, you go up to the counter, choose what you like and pay at the cashier. This is a good option if you are pressed for time, you don't need ambience and would like to save money.

Car Rental: There are several options to drop off the car in the city centre. BUT be sure you check if the car rental office is open...some (not all) are not opened all day...they can tend to shut in the middle of the afternoon (between 12-3PM) and on Sundays. The airport locations are usually more flexible with their hours but, as long as you double check hours of operation, then you can easily opt for droping off the car at one of the city locations vs having to go out to the airport.

GPS: I strongly recommend renting or bringing a GPS...it will help minimize getting lost in the city or countryside and prevent unnecessary stress.

Hope this helps! Enjoy your trip to Italy. :-)
Denise - Your Friend In Italy

Posted By Denise on September 1, 2010, 10:03 AM

Hi Kate,

Lucky girl!
Can you find a store(s) that sells organic beauty products, exclusively produced in Florence? Am searching for a store that sells soaps, lotions, etc. And if they have a website too!

Thank you!

Diane Wong

Posted By Diane Wong on September 1, 2010, 4:58 PM

Hi Julie, You are totally correct about the name being from Louisiana, as yours sounds to be, also. However, in this case, Guidry comes from my husband who was born in New Orleans. I am originally a Texas girl, but have been fortunate to live in so many beautiful places: Texas, Louisiana, New Hampshire, Italy and currently Colorado.

Hi Denise -

I must say, you have my dream occupation. Lucky, Lucky, Lucky! We also love the Veneto. Is that where you specialize or are you everywhere? On our last trip we were in Italy a month and spent 8 days exploring that region. As in all of Italy, so much to see. And then there is the prosecco!

Thanks for the assist in some of the eateries. I had forgot about the self-serve type places. Another option for those who might have budget or time constraints, and who have a car, are the places along the autostrada. At these places there really aren't any "food rules" that I can think of. Eat what you want, when you want, although not everything will be available at all hours. Many of these places also have very good grocery type sections where you can purchase excellent salumi, cheeses, wines, etc. to take for a picnic.

We also like to have bottled water in the car or in our hotel room at night and have found the bottles in the hotel mini bar to be quite expensive. If we are lucky enough to see a supermarket or neighborhood grocery we will buy it there for the best price, but it is also very reasonable from a bar or along the autostrada. Don't know if this has changed, but when we were there it was considered somewhat gauche to drink out of a bottle or can without a straw, especially on the street. However, keep in mind that we learned all of our Italian manners from the Milanese and they can be a little stringent.

You are also so right about the time factor in Italy and how most things are regulated with an entirely different perspective on time there. A funny story - we have some neighbors who took a trip to Italy several years ago and when we were recently talking about it, the subject of the food came up and they said that they never found any good food while they were there. I was shocked, but on further questioning discovered that they were trying to eat lunch at 11:00 am and dinner at 5:30 pm. I asked them if no one had explained the Italian meal times to them and they said yes, but they were hungry at 11:00 am and 5:30 pm, so they subsided on street or other fast food. They liked to be in bed before most of the restaurants opened in the evening.

I totally agree with you about the GPS. We have travelled in Europe with one since around 2004 and what a difference they make. One of the features of the GPS that we love is for locating parking garages when in a city. The only thing worse than being lost is being where you want to be, but not finding a place to park. We have used several different brands and they were all good, but on our last two trips we used a TomTom and could not believe some of the places they got us to. Once in Puglia the main highway was closed for repairs and we asked for an alternate route. I swear that it took us on a dried up river bed, but we eventually came out on the edge of the town we wanted. We are true believers!

Well, once again - I wish all of you lucky travelers a wonderful trip and don't get too hung up on all the etiquette stuff. It's much less important as a tourist than as a resident.
Christy

Posted By Christy Guidry on September 2, 2010, 12:57 AM

P. S.

This is for Lori - I forgot to mention in my previous tome that we have a friend with celiac disease who recently traveled to Italy and she found that the Michelin Red Guide was very good about noting this in the individual restaurant info. I haven't checked the guide for Florence, specifically, but I know that you used to be able to get all the red guide info directly on the internet. Don't know if this is still true, but worth a chance. If you have time before you go, I'm sure the Tourist Board in Florence could help you out with this. Worst case, if you go with no info at all - all the restaurants all over Italy are very amenable to working with you on special needs. Food is practically a religion there and they want you to be happy! (and safe) If language should be a problem (which, in Florence it typically is not), just tell the waiter "No farina" or no flour. I believe celiac is the same in Italian, but pronounced slightly different (chay-lee-ahk). You could write "Malattia di Celiac" on a piece of paper to show a waiter if necessary. Even if it is not on the menu, almost all restaurants there will be able to do simple things like meat (carne), chicken (pollo) or fish (pesce) on the grill or liscio (pronounced LEE-SHOW), which means plain, or an omelet (omeletta) or salad (insalata). Fortunately, unlike the Italian food that we are accustomed to here in America, real Italian food is usually prepared much more simply, with fewer ingredients. My guess is that it may be difficult to get gluten free breads or pastas except in the supermarkets. Best of Luck!! christy

Posted By Christy Guidry on September 2, 2010, 1:25 AM

We stayed in April at the Hotel Orto de Medici for not much money, and there's a student bar right next door which serves a wonderful buffet for the price of a drink - @ 8 euros. Lots of pasta, but a huge array of food. Near the hotel (around the corner from the Accademia - and the REAL David) are lots of student eateries with decent and inexpensive food, and the buses run right by there. Definitely become a Friend of the Uffizi. It's pricey, but you NEVER have to stand in line for that gallery and several others.

Posted By Linda Mahoney on September 2, 2010, 12:23 PM

Can someone recommend a good walking tour of Florence in English?

Posted By Peggye Cohen on September 2, 2010, 2:07 PM

I'd like to find out where in Florence to purchase flags of the different neighborhoods that compete in the Calcio Storico "football" game most summers.

Posted By John Scheleur on September 2, 2010, 2:41 PM

Best gelato: Vivoli, hands down.

Posted By Nancy on September 2, 2010, 11:51 PM

What is the best source for renting an apartment in Italy? Is there a minimum and or maximum amount of time required for a short term rental?
Thanks

Frannie D

Posted By Frannie D on September 3, 2010, 2:53 AM

Re: LeAnna's post - I rented 2 cars in Italy last summer. One of the cars was dropped off in the city in a prohibited area. It was no problem. Hertz told me to drop the car off in their designated parking garage. It was a breeze. The second car (a van) was dropped off at the Florence Airport.

We were supposed to stay in an apartment near the Duomo but the apartment was too tricky for my 89 year old wheelchaired bound father so at 11pm at night, we moved to the Novotel by the Florence airport. Very convenient parking, close to the autostrada, and they had complimentary transportation several times a day in and out of Florence. Had we stayed at the apartment, the owner (a fabulously kind person) registered our license plate at a parking lot very near the apartment. This registration was supposed to go into the system so that we were allowed to drive in and out of the prohibited area. Hope this helps.

Posted By toobusy2 on September 4, 2010, 8:58 AM

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your comments and questions about Florence. And special thanks to Christy and Denise for sharing your insights! I notice some emerging themes, such as the best places for drinking and eating, related etiquette advice, and tips for car rentals and transportation. I'll investigate while I'm in Florence next week and will respond to as many questions as possible.

Frannie D, while researching my own apartment rental, I noticed rentals available for as short a period as two or three nights. I'll share more advice about booking and staying in an apartment after I return. Nancy, I agree that Vivoli is a great choice for gelato in Florence, but my hands-down favorite has been Gelateria dei Neri (via dei Neri 26r). I've heard good things about the gelateria Badiani from a friend who grew up in Florence and plan to check it out this time.

A presto!
Kate

Posted By Kate Appleton on September 6, 2010, 5:05 AM