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Rio de Janeiro: 5 common questions, answered
Posted by: Budget Travel, Thursday, Mar 25, 2010, 8:36 AM

Few Americans know foreign cities as well as guidebook authors do, and that's why we turned to Michael Sommers for advice on Rio de Janeiro, one of our picks for the Top Budget Travel Destinations for 2010. Sommers wrote the book on Brazil's famous city for Moon Travel Guides, a series that is especially acclaimed for its Latin American coverage.

1. When's the best time to visit Rio?
Rio de Janeiro makes for a fun tropical escape yearround. On the downside, summer (which is winter in the U.S.) is "high season" so expect high prices to accompany the very high temperatures (think: 100 degrees Fahrenheit) along with humidity that is often exacerbated by torrential rains. Beaches will be mobbed since Cariocas (as the locals call themselves) will be on vacation, but if you want to experience Rio's beach culture to the hilt, you will.

Personally, I prefer the city at other times of year when the climate is more temperate ("winter" temperatures sometimes fall to a still-pleasant 60 degrees), the beaches are less crowded, and you can discover less obvious aspects of the city without the heat and hype.

2. Is Rio dangerous?
Danger is a very relative thing. Rio definitely has more potential risks than other cities of its size. Like any city, the key is how to minimize the risks (such as knowing where to go and when). So be sensible without being paranoid. A lot of the scary violence you hear about in Rio goes on in favelas and other areas you wouldn't (and shouldn't) be visiting on your own. The Zona Sul neighborhoods (with all of the famous name beaches you want to visit) are quite well policed and pretty safe during the days and early evenings. Walking in busy areas is fine. But be leery of abandoned areas or streets, and, at night, it's wise to take cabs. Dress fairly simply and discretely, and avoid fumbling for money in public. I'd recommend a money belt and a bag that you can loop around a shoulder. Take only essentials to the beach. And then relax!

3. How can I blend in?
"Blending in" is not only a good idea in terms of safety (see above), but will help you feel more at ease and enjoy the city. My first tip would be to hit the beach. Not only will this immediately plunge you into Carioca culture, but a tan will give you that healthy local glow that will dispel that just-off-the-plane look. Try to dress local, which means Havaianas, a biquini (for women) and sunga (for men) for the beach, and some decent jeans and form-fitting t-shirts and tops for elsewhere (sneakers for men, comfortable sandals or platforms for women). Leave the one-piece bathing suits and Speedos at home along with baggy cargo shorts and oversized tees. Cariocas are casual, but not slobby. No matter how native you look, your "tongue" will betray you. Learning some basic Portuguese makes ALL the difference (especially in terms of good will). Surprisingly few people speak (very good) English. Finally, be flexible and don't get stressed. Cariocas respond to charm and humor much more than impatience and aggressiveness.

4. Is Rio expensive, and how can I live it up for less?
To be honest, Rio is not as cheap as it used to be. While the U.S. dollar has taken a serious beating against the Brazilian real, Brazilians' own standard of living has increased in recent years. That said, like any big city, there are tons of fantastic inexpensive and free options that allow you to take advantage of the best that Rio offers. Natural attractions--the beaches and green spaces such as the Floresta de Tijuca, Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, and Parque de Flamengo--are all free. All museums often free admission on selected days. To get around, don't be afraid to take buses or the (air-conditioned!) Metro.

In terms of accommodations, come during the off-season, and take advantage of a new outcrop of cheap and charming guesthouses, B&Bs and hostels. Consider staying in non-beach neighborhoods such as Santa Teresa, Flamengo, or Laranjeiras—attractive, historically interesting, and refreshingly untouristy. (For example, Flamengo is connected to the beaches by the city's convenient subway lines and has interesting hotels like Novo Mundo.)

As for food, "per kilo" restaurants allow you to eat as much or as little as you want of whatever you want. Bares de suco (juice bars) serve (filling) fruit juices and vitaminas along with healthy sandwiches while beloved botequins (classic Rio bars) offer home-cooked daily specials and a wealth of delicious appetizers that can easily constitute a meal. Foodies take note: many of the city's finest restaurants offer inexpensive executivo lunch menus during the week.

5. What's the best way to enjoy Carnaval?
When most people think of Rio's Carnaval, they conjure up the fabulous floats and flamboyantly (and often scantily) costumed sambistas that parade through the Sambodromo during the desfiles de escolas de samba (samba school parades). This event is truly spectacular. However, be aware that you'll either need to get tickets far in advance (it's possible to do so online) or shell out some big bucks. If money's no object, the private boxes are much more comfortable than the regular bleachers. If money is an object, arrive at the Sambodromo after the parade starts (it'll go on all night) and haggle with scalpers. The best seats are in the central sections.

Many people have a lot more fun joining Rio's blocos and bandas. Consisting of neighborhood residents and merrymakers who (costumed or not) take to the streets to sing, samba, and have an awful lot of fun, this traditional street Carnaval is enjoying a major revival. It costs nothing and allows you to bond with Cariocas of all stripes.

Finally, even if you miss Carnaval itself, you can get a taste of it beforehand. Rio's samba schools hold weekly rehearsals at their headquarters (beginning in October) while blocos and bandas often hold theirs in front of neighborhood bars that double as unofficial club houses (usually in the weeks before Carnaval). Rehearsals inevitably turn into informal street parties and, once again, offer great opportunities to interact with Cariocas.

MORE
Moon Rio de Janeiro

Budget Travel's Exit Interview: Just Back From... the Beaches of Rio


Rio de Janeiro: Top Budget Travel Destination for 2010

Filed Under: brazil, rio de janeiro
Reader Comments

Great list of answers. Thanks a lot.

Posted By Levinson-Axelrod on March 25, 2010, 3:21 PM

Are you kidding? Hit the beach & get a tan? What advice is that? What about the delightful food, music, people watching or ...anything a real adult would want to do.

Posted By Aimes on March 25, 2010, 10:16 PM

I've been visiting rio for 13 years and I've never before found such a well put together and accurate summary as this one. You say everything that needs saying and without a single factual error. After all the drivel I read on other sites, this is a breath of fresh air. Congratulations!
And Aimes - delightful food, people watching, music - I assume you are pointing out that all of this is to be found on the beach.

Posted By giselle on March 26, 2010, 4:09 AM

I live in Sao Paulo and have visited Rio many times. Definitely leave the one-piece at home...you will look like an idiot on the beach and stand out like a sore thumb. And his advice about the "hit the beach and get a tan" is great...the beaches are THE place to hang out in Rio...the best people watching (and bikini watching) you can have in Rio! And you never have to leave your seat b/c the world will be going by offering you everything you could ever want...even a bikini if you didn't follow our advice!

Posted By Sara on March 26, 2010, 8:22 PM

For a cheap meal or snack, eat at a frango or galletto (roast chicken), restaurant. They are very simple places with only a counter in some establishments but serve a crispy skinned and juicy half a chicken with side dishes for US$5 or so. You'll see them all around within the famous beach areas of the Zona Sul. Don't visit the downtown "Centro" area during the weekends when it is almost devoid of people. I've spoken to locals including a Brazilian United Air Flight attendant who were robbed at gunpoint during that time. I've read of too many tourists who get robbed walking in the "Tunnel Novo", which is the main tunnel from Copacabana Beach to the Zona Sul Shopping Center, Flamengo, Lapa, Guanabara Bay and Centro Areas. I've never had a problem walking in there, but it does make you feel uneasy. The benefits of Rio far outway any dangers. I'd go out the front door of my hotel to a beach cafe in the morning, have a fruit salad and coffee for a light breakfast, then smoke a Cuban cigar that I purchased in the city. That's life my friends!

Posted By David Harada on March 29, 2010, 4:25 PM

I agree with the author about Rio (with one exception). My husband and I stayed in Rio for six days from Dec. 22-28 after ending a South American cruise. Rio was definitely the high point of our trip. It is situated in a spectacular geographic setting and it has many points of interest besides the beach scene. We were warned repeatedly about the crime but never saw or experienced any problems. But I did not wear any jewelry and had a very small purse carried across my body. There were many police on the beach and the entire Copacabana area where we stayed. That may have been because of the busy Christmas holiday season and the many families visiting the area. If you are only going to be in Rio for a few days I would stay in the Copacabana area-this is where the action is. I have a good place to stay if you email me. I have to disagree about leaving a one piece suit at home. I am 64 yrs old and would not be caught dead in a bikini. I wore my one piece while walking Copacabana and Ipanema area and never felt out of place. I saw too many women who looked like idiots in those brief suits. I can also recommend an outstanding tour guide who is great fun. We hope to return for Carnavale in the future. Rio is a must city to see. We also did not have problems getting our visas-other American cruise passengers did and got off the ship before Rio. It was recommended to get money out of ATMs for the best rate but you need to make sure you go to an ATM that is international (such as Citibank) A Brazilian only bank did not accept our American ATM card.

Posted By maureen marconi on March 29, 2010, 7:34 PM

I loved living in Rio for two years. The beaches are pretty but be sure to wear hard sole sandals when walking on them. Medical waste is dumped at sea and syringes end up in the sand. One of my co-workers stepped on one and ended up hospitalized.

Posted By Lee on March 30, 2010, 9:38 AM

thanks for the post

Posted By Robert Wilson on October 18, 2010, 4:34 AM

The impossible and unbelieavable geography of the city, trapped between the mountains and the sea. Rio is absolutely unique.

Loved your blog .. lots of useful information. I also have one about Rio de Janeiro. When you have a chance take a look – www.apartmentsforrentinrio.com I live in Rio and I love this city. Anything other info you need regarding Rio me let me know.
Great Job !!!

Posted By Andy Steven on April 11, 2012, 7:44 AM

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