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St. John: Warm weather escape planner
Posted by: Budget Travel, Thursday, Feb 11, 2010, 12:19 PM

St. John is the smallest of the US Virgin Islands, but it is considered one of the most beautiful patches of untouched natural beauty in the Caribbean. Almost two-thirds of the island is made up of a national park, where you can go hiking. Off the coast, there are astonishing spots for snorkeling and scuba diving.

MUST-SEE
Cruz Bay is the capital of St. John, and it is so small that its streets don't have names. The town some restaurants, bars serving delicious rum drinks, and a park. Because cruise ships don't come to Cruz Bay—it is accessible via a 20-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas—crowds are not as huge and unwieldy as they are on other Caribbean islands.

White powder sands make Trunk Bay one of the most popular and beautiful beaches in the US Virgin Islands, if not the world. It contains a famed underwater snorkeling trail that stretches for 650 feet and helps you identify the coral and the anemone that you're viewing. Admission to the beach is $4.

Annaberg Plantation, part of the National Park, includes the ruins of a sugar plantation that dates from the late 1700s, when sugar, molasses, and rum were produced on the grounds.

Cinnamon Bay is the place to go for watersports like snorkeling, windsurfing, and kayaking. The beach has a sports center that rents equipment, and you can arrange day sailing trips and scuba diving lessons.

EATS
Try Johnny Cakes from a local take-out kiosk. A savory deep-fried flour pouch stuffed with any combination of eggs, cheese or ham, this palm-sized specialty sells for $1–$2 at the local take-out kiosks. These tiny stands also serve delicious lunches.

Comfees in downtown Cruz Bay, up the hill from FirstBank, prepares some of the best pates on the island: elliptical rolls of dough filled with ground beef, chicken, salt-fish or conch, a soft Caribbean shell-fish. At just $2-$4 each, patessimilar to Jamaican patties—make a cheap lunch that works well as a beach-side picnic.

To get away from Cruz Bay, check out the much smaller town of Coral Bay on the other side of the island, where many locals live. ViTran buses leave every two hours from the ferry dock in Cruz Bay. The 45 minute trip costs $1. Although the commercial area of Coral Bay consists of little more than a recently paved road and a handful of businesses, a casual restaurant on the main drag called Sticky Fingers serves excellent barbecue. Popular with a diverse neighborhood crowd who sit in the gravel front-yard under a baby blue and yellow awning. Order the barbecue chicken, pork ribs, or beef brisket with home-made sauce and two sides for $13 or less.

WHERE TO STAY
Maho Bay Camps: 114 tent-like cottages are set above a serene stretch of white-sand beach. When owner Stanley Selengut opened Maho Bay Camps on St. John in 1976, he never intended to be a pioneer in the ecotourism movement.
After leasing a 14-acre plot above idyllic Maho Bay, the entrepreneurial environmentalist built 114 tent-like cottages with screened windows and open-air terraces set above a glorious stretch of white-sand beach. A few years later he added nearby Harmony Studios, 12 airy apartments with kitchenettes, lofted ceilings, and large decks with water views (for better views, ask for an upper-level unit, which costs about $10 extra) maho.org.

MORE
Fly Nonstop to the Beach: Check out our interactive trip planner at budgettravel.com/nonstopcarribbean

Reader Comments

I've been visiting St. John for over fifteen years, and agree that it's a fantastic island. Let me add a few recommendations -

Trunk Bay is lovely, but frequently mobbed by tourists, especially on days when cruise ships are visiting. There's equally good snorkeling and much more privacy at the sandy beaches further east, such as Francis Bay and Leinster Bay.

For food, Woody's Seafood Saloon in Cruz Bay has my favorite burgers in the world, and Miss Lucy's out near Coral Bay has excellent island cuisine right on a lovely beach (kids can swim while waiting for their lunch).

The Maho Camps are certainly the best super-budget option on the island, but if going with a large group of family or friends it can be worth it to rent a house instead - having a kitchen is very handy, and a lot of places are offering deals nowadays due to the economy. My favorite is called "The Retreat," out at the quiet East End of the island, and has fantastic views and snorkeling.

Posted By Aurelia Flaming on February 16, 2010, 2:35 PM

Totally agree...St. John is THE BEST around the Caribbean. The quiet vibe, good restaurants and easy going people make you go back again and again. Oh, and it is THE best snorkeling around.

Also check out Gallows Point Hotel...value priced for a gorgeous location. La Tapa for a fabulous meal at a very locals place is tons of fun. Follow it up with a sunset cocktail at the Beach Bar. Enjoy!

Posted By JenA on February 16, 2010, 3:02 PM

My wife Gloria and I have been to St.Johns twice and we enjoyed every minute of it. Daughter Julie has lived there for the past 17 years. Our son in Law cooks at skinney Legs. We are both getting up in age now but would like to visit one more time. St Thomas is also a very nice place to visit but we liked the different culture of St.John and the history.

Posted By Brad Reynolds on February 16, 2010, 11:16 PM

St. John is beautiful. I have been there twice so far and both times we stayed at the Maho Bay Camps. The store at the camps has everything you need for your stay. Meals are served every day and the food is delicious. Every night after dinner you can go to the glass blowing studio and watch professionals make beautiful glass art. I took a glass blowing class while there, and it is amazing how easy they make it look because it is very hard. The Annaberg Sugar Ruins are truly amazing. During our stay, the best snorkeling was at Francis Bay and Hawksnest Bay. One tip for Trunk Bay: go in the early morning when there are hardly any people. The beaches aren't as crowded and there are more fish.

Posted By Elaina B. on February 17, 2010, 4:02 PM

Maho Bay is closing down. They announced that about 6 months ago. They were engaged in trying to raise money to keep the place going but I think it's sayonara for this wonderful place. There's always tenting at Cinnamon Bay but Maho is really special, particularly their wonderful buffet food.

Posted By Fran Tucker on February 17, 2010, 7:15 PM

St. John is a beautiful island. I have visited there many times over the past ten years and have loved every visit. Most of my visits last about three to four days after a week-long charter sail in the British Virgin Islands.

There are great deals on all sorts of jewelry and watches at several shops along the waterfront area. Freebird is my favorite shop becasue they have watches! And I love watches. Ask for Pat. He is very knowledgeable and quite helpful.

There is great food there as well. There is outstanding BBQ to be had all around the island. There is one great place near the ferry dock that has great BBQ.

For more "upscale" shopping, the shops at Mongoose Junction will suit you just fine. I tried on a Patek Phillipe watch in 2008 in one of the shops that was valued at about $50,000.00. Very upscale!

Speaking of upscale, the Westin St. John Resort is just that with beautiful grounds, great restaurants and a private beach. Of course the beach is not as wonderful as Trunk Bay or Maho Bay.

Rent a car and drive the island and you will find some other great places off the beaten path. Skinny Legs is one that comes to mind. Very casual dining with a view of a bay that faces the British Virgin Islands.

I could go on forever.

All this being said, St. John is a great place to visit.

Posted By Gary on February 18, 2010, 7:39 AM

Hi Fran,
Thanks for letting us know!
We’ll add a note to the blog post after we confirm the news with the property.
Thanks again for you comment,
Sean
Blog editor

Posted By Blog Editor on February 18, 2010, 10:42 AM

Do you need 4 wheel drive ?

Posted By dennis winner on October 18, 2010, 7:45 AM

Can anyone recommend a vacation house for two families (4 adults, 5 children). We are planning a trip next summer. Thank you!

Posted By Rachel on October 27, 2010, 1:31 PM

Dude, please tell me that youre going to write far more. I notice you havent written another weblog for a even though (Im just catching up myself). Your weblog is just too important to be missed. Youve got so a lot to say, such understanding about this subject it would be a shame to see this blog disappear. The internet requirements you, man!

Posted By proform ab glider on April 21, 2012, 6:04 PM

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