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NYC: A girl can't live on bread alone
Posted by: Beth Collins, Friday, Feb 26, 2010, 11:20 AM

I could eat a sandwich for lunch every day for the rest of my life and never get bored, so when I heard that the Whitney museum was calling its new pop-up café Sandwiched, I circled the opening date on my calendar, set a reminder on my iPhone, and studied the restaurant's menu like I was prepping for the SATs.

Well, yesterday was the day, and despite Mother Nature's best efforts to keep me inside, I bundled up and trekked through the snow-slush all the way up to 75th Street. I felt a little shallow telling the ticket guy I was skipping the art and going directly to the café (the launch of the pop-up coincides with the opening of the Whitney Biennial), but my lunch hour is only so long, and a I've gotta have priorities, right?

Aside from two soups, two salads, and a few snacks (chips, a muffin, a yogurt-nut mix), everything on the menu is a sandwich of some sort: eight savory options (ranging from the very basic PB&J to the more advanced chicken schnitzel with black-truffle celery slaw and gruyere on a toasted brioche), and four dessert options (gourmet takes on things like the fluffer nutter). Being the brainchild of Danny Meyers's Union Square Hospitality Group, Sandwiched has a ridiculously talented pool of chefs at its disposal, and several of them have contributed to the menu. Gramercy Tavern's Michael Anthony created the heritage ham & sharp cheddar sandwich, for example, Union Square Café's Carmen Quagliata came up with the cured salmon, avocado cream cheese, cucumber, and radish option.

I went for the Knoll Crest egg sandwich, which comes with thick-cut bacon, cheddar curds, bibb lettuce, and tomato marmalade. And because I knew I'd have eager taste-testers in my coworkers, I ordered two of each dessert to bring back to the office. I should have eaten the sandwich right away—it's served hot, and by the time I made it back to the office it was merely luke-warm. But even in that state, it hit the spot—though I question their choice of bread (they serve it on a soft Pain de Mie roll; I think it would be better on something with a little more texture, like a nice ciabatta). And the dessert sandwiches were a hit with the Budget Travel crew. As a fan of all things from Maine, I wanted to love the Lemon Whoopie Pie, but I found it a little too cleaned up—I prefer the obnoxiously oversized, cartoonishly puffy versions from up north. But the fluffer nutter—a fresh-baked peanut-butter cookie with marshmallow fluff and thinly sliced bananas in the center—and the intense chocolate brownie with a mint-cream center were both just right: refined, but not overly precious.

Will I go back? Absolutely. And next time, I'll even make a little time for the art.

Sandwiched
Whitney Museum of American Art
945 Madison Avenue, at 75th St. Open through Fall 2010.

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 11 a.m. –5 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. –8 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Monday closed

Savory sandwiches from $5.50, dessert sandwiches from $3

EARLIER
Our New York City page

Reader Comments

Continental's new charge for a seat with more leg room is stupid. So some elderly person pays the $59.00 for the exit seat for more leg room but physically cannot understand or get the emergency door open??? When will the air lines become rational again? Why doesn't the FAA step in and stop this silliness? What happened to peoples rights as consumers and the safety of all of the people on the planes. Please someone HELP!

Posted By Linda Pfaender on March 5, 2010, 3:35 AM

Reading this month's BUDGET TRAVEL a comment from Beth on the masthead caught my eye. You said you'd like to go to France to learn about making cheese. I wanted to suggest, for budget travelers, one might consider saving the airfare and coming to Vermont to learn the art of cheese making. Shelburne Farms, producers of an award-winning farmstead cheedar, offers a 4-day cheese making course each year called "Pasture to Palate." It is already fully booked for May 11-13, 2010, but you might put the idea in the hopper for next year.

Posted By Sue Dixon on March 23, 2010, 9:38 AM

Beth, did you write that: "Maine is home to more undeveloped land than any other state in the country..."

Posted By The State of Alaska on July 11, 2010, 3:22 PM

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