Years ago, I saw an episode of Sex and the City that featured a discussion about the Eiffel Tower. A pouty young Parisienne called it hideous—or rather, as she pronounced it, eeeeedious. The impression stuck, and I later moved to Paris with the idea that this landmark was unloved by the locals.
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Those who visit the Lady in person this summer will be treated to some new dining options. Following last year's renovation of the gastronomic Jules Verne, the Tower has just revived and reopened a second and cheaper restaurant. Prices at 58 Tour Eiffel are still a bit high. Count on €19–31 ($25–40) for lunch and €60–125 ($78–163) for dinner. That's pricey, but many travelers will find it worthwhile for the view over the Seine and Champs de Mars. Budget-minders can come instead for the goûter (afternoon snack) with wine and cheese or coffee and pastry for €20 ($26). Prices don't include the €8 ($10) elevator up to the first floor. Save some money and burn calories by taking the stairs for €4.50 ($6).
These new choices are great, but the cheapest and most charming food option is still a picnic on the Champs de Mars. Bring your own bottle (ask your wineseller to open it if you’re not carrying around a corkscrew) and pick up some top-notch takeaway on the nearby rue Cler and rue Nicot. With baguette and fromage, this green lawn is the best seat in town for the hourly twinkle on the Tower. When the Lady bursts into sparkle at the turn of every hour, even the poutiest Parisians stop to smile.
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What - not carry a corkscrew in France. Are you mad? For me, the essential item in any time in France is my Swiss Army Knife, Nomad model, which has a fine cork screw and a good cheese cutting knife with a safety feature to keep me from slicing myself. With it, the en plein aire dining is always immediately possible.
Posted By Randolph Becker on April 30, 2009, 1:07 PM
Thanks for the tips...we are heading to France in early June with a stop in Paris and the Eiffel Tower is at the top of my must see list! The picnic sounds just fabulous!
Posted By Tina Caparella on April 30, 2009, 1:13 PM
I just came back from Paris, there were lots of people sitting on the green pic nic the weather was beautiful the line to go up the Tour Eifel was very very very long, also to take the stairs was very very very long. however,it was a beautiful day spent
Posted By Marcelle Despradel on April 30, 2009, 1:34 PM
Paris,
A New Yorker doesn't get excited over much. Yet on a recent trip to PAris's Eiffel Tower I was awstruck when the tower's lights flickered at night while standing on one of the platforms iside the steal structure. If you are headed to Paris, do not miss this experience.
Posted By nmorato on May 2, 2009, 11:43 AM
Near the Eiffel Tower is the wonderful rue Cler market where you can buy all that you need for a wonderful picnic. If you walk down the rue du Champ de Mars to reach the rue Cler you will pass a wonderful bakery at the corner of Ave Bosquet, Epicerie Fine and the perfect cheese shop on your left.
Posted By Renee on May 2, 2009, 8:53 PM
I just came back from Paris last week and wanted to tell all of you that it is soooo worth it to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. The view of paris is incredible and unforgettable and the pictures you can take up there are priceless! Also, Rue Cler is AWESOME. You must visit and pick up some great french bread, wines, cheeses, cold cuts and prepared foods. Its such a lovely street, seriously! Its worth picking up a few goods, going back to the hotel and relaxing with some good french treats after a long long day of walking and metro hopping!
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