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Snow is falling as I write this, building up on sidewalk tables and the shoulders of hurried smokers. It's a scene best seen from indoors, my fingers alternating between the keypad and a steaming coffee mug.
When Paris is cold, my favorite activity—the aimless wander—is on hold. And outdoor pleasures like the impromptu picnic and the riverboat cruise become intolerable when the temperature drops. So what's there to do in the dead of winter?
[+] Enlarge photo
Some of the best French cuisine comes from the Southwest region and is perfect for cold weather. Indulge in classics like confit de canard (duck that's been preserved in its own fat and then slowly roasted until crispy) and cassoulet (a crock of creamy white beans with sausage and other meats) will keep you warm for hours, especially if accompanied by a hearty red wine from the same region. Standout spots for this cuisine are Le Pamphlet (38 rue Debelleyme, 3rd arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-72-39-24) and Au Fil des Saisons (6 rue des Fontaines du Temple, 3rd arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-74-16-60).
Shop
The biannual national sales fall during the hottest and coldest months of the year. I prefer to do my hunting during the winter version, held this year from Jan 7 through Feb. 10, when the heat of bargain battle serves the dual purpose of also keeping me warm. I like to head to one of the grande dame department stores, where I can find everything I want (including lunch and a glass of wine) without braving the wind outside. Galleries Lafayette (40 boulevard Haussmann, 9th arrondissement) and Printemps (64 boulevard Haussmann, 9th arrondissement) on the right bank, and Bon Marché on the rive gauche (22/38, rue de Sèvres, 7th arrondissement) are all good options.
Skate!
This is the year I'm going to finally try the outdoor rink at Hôtel de Ville. It's such a gorgeous setting, especially at night, when you can twirl surrounded by the shimmering city-hall lights. It's also budget friendly (free to enter, with skate rental for €5), and a great way to work up an appetite before one of those heavy Southwestern meals. Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, 4th arrondissement, open Monday-Thursday noon-10pm and Friday-Sunday noon to midnight.
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Merci, Meg! I'm considering a trip in March with my girls, and was looking for some budget-conscious activities. Maybe we'll still score some impromptu picnics, but skating sounds fab too!
Posted By Lisa Bergren on January 16, 2009, 6:23 PM
I spent the holidays in Paris this year. While there was a ton to do, I nearly froze. I live in Panama most of the year and borrowed all kinds of warm clothes, so I was prepared. However, I did get very tired of wearing 5 layers, top and bottom, just to get to the Metro...a 2 block walk...and would never, ever recommend that anyone see Paris in the winter.
Posted By bobettejane on January 20, 2009, 11:20 PM
We were just there from Dec.26-Jan.3 and the weather was cold to freezing yet we walked a lot but spent time at museums or shopping. Besides there were so many people there the crowds kept us warm! The best way to see Paris and still stay warm is taking the bus everywhere! The 96 and the 69 are fabulous lines that take you all the popular places. We never take the Metro- we'd miss too much if we did. I would never recommend going to Paris during the New Year holiday- the crowds were worse than in the summer, the lines extra long, terrible if they run outside in the cold!
Posted By Laura on January 21, 2009, 12:47 PM
I went to Paris for a week over Thanksgiving, thanks to a great package deal I learned about in Budget Travel magazine. The weather was chilly but it was still comfortable enough to walk all over town, and there weren't any crowds at all.
Posted By Rose on January 26, 2009, 1:19 PM
I was just there on Jan. 8-14 and even though the temps were cold (-5C) for this Floridian, it was very tolerable. I really wanted to skate in front of Hotel De Ville, but the pain in my foot prevented me from doing so. I'll make sure to do it the next time I go back...
I would totally recommend Paris in the winter, though keep in mind that the towers of Notre Dame could close due to ice. But other than that, it is still totally enjoyable in the cold.
Posted By Arvin on January 27, 2009, 5:53 AM
I don't know if it's open in the winter or not, but Paris has an indoor water park that is accessible from the Metro. I went to Aquaboulevard last fall and had a blast. I felt a little funny going to a water park alone, but since school was in session, is was mostly adults there anyway. In addition to the usual waterslides and wave pool, there are a variety of hot tubs, ranging from just warm to really hot. To get there, take Metro line #8 to the end (Balard), then walk two blocks to the elevated freeway, cross under, and you're there.
Posted By mike on January 27, 2009, 5:10 PM
My husband and I were in Paris from December 27th to January 6, 2009. I have vowed to NEVER again go to Paris in the winter, especially during the Christmas/New Year's holiday! It was freezing cold every day, the Notre Dame Towers were closed due to ice, the holiday crowds were MUCH worse than I expected, many stores and restuarants were closed over the holidays, Versailles opened 1 1/2 hours late due to ice the day we went(which resulted in a crazed mob of tourists pushing and shoving and sliding their way over ice into the palace), etc. Even on our two days outside of Paris, to Mont St Michel, there was another ice storm and we had to CRAWL all the way up the monastery steps on our hands and knees, trying not to fall on the ice! Next time we go to Paris it will be in September or October when the weather is milder.
Posted By Wendy M. on January 27, 2009, 8:51 PM
I was in Paris for New Year's and while it was cold, and crowded in some areas, I still was able to walk around for hours and enjoyed every minute. I packed lightweight silk long underwear that didn't add bulk, a scarf and gloves,and I was comfortable, even while standing in long lines. A drawback is that some shops and restaurants are closed over the holiday season.
Posted By Vickie on February 3, 2009, 12:05 AM
My husband and I go to Europe every January for 5 days over MLK weekend. So far we've been to Paris, Berlin, Amsterdam, Cambridge, Rome, and Munich. It's always cold (except Rome) but there are few crowds and the museums have no lines. The creches were still up in the churches of Rome. We were one of only a few non-locals in the beer halls. We had a our own tours at many sights because no one else wanted an English tour. We just bundle up and then enjoy having wine to warm up!
Posted By Susan Athey on February 12, 2009, 10:25 PM
Thank you Meg for the restaurant suggestions in the third arrondissement. I had confit de canard the whole time I was in Sarlat - my mouth waters just typing these words. It may not sound very appetizing to eat duck preserved in its own fat, but boy is it delicious!
Posted By Miki on February 26, 2009, 5:29 PM