Okay, so in Argentina, there is no restaurant you can go to without leaving and saying, "That was the best meal ever!" I can point you to one in particular that left me saying "Wow!" Now, here is the problem...I don't know the name of it, but I can definitely describe where it is. If you are facing the entrance of the Recoleta Cemetery, walk all the way to the left of the main wall and you will see a string of restaurants right along the street that have outdoor seating. The one farthest to the left is where I ate, and it was one of the most amazing meals I have ever eaten. The bread was superb, and I believe I ordered the Bife de Chorizo. Also, don't forget to order their Dulce de Leche flan. Another tip, don't pack any of the Dulce in your bag when coming home (you'll want to purchase some to bring home after your try it, trust me!) Make sure it is packed away in your checked-in baggage, or else they will throw it away before you board to come back to the U.S. Have a great time there (I know you will!)

Posted By Faith Chakirian on January 28, 2008, 12:07 PM

For an excellent value and local flavor visit La Brigada in San Telmo.

Posted By Nancy on January 28, 2008, 12:18 PM

In Mendoza, we enjoyed rafting in the Andes, horseback riding (complete with a cookout), and a tour of three vineyards. Warning - our tour guide spoke only Spanish, but the last vineyard gave us a special tour in English and the tour ended up with a fabulous meal in a modern glass building in the middle of the vineyard. Don't miss it!

Visit a bar with a Tango show in Mendoza and you'll also get locals that want to practice their skills. Very fun.

On the sad side, there is a huge 200-year-old tortise imprisoned in the "aquarium" in Mendoza. I would love to help give him a better home. Go visit him to let him know you care.

Posted By Lee Brannan on January 28, 2008, 12:28 PM

I hope you are staying in Recolleta. Shopping on Florida street and Patio Bullriche are the best and anything on Alvear.

Posted By Brenda Scott on January 28, 2008, 12:33 PM

Estilo Campo has the best steaks. It is amazing. Cafe Tortoni has wonderful hot chocolate. Uru in Recoleta will make a leather coat for you in a few hours for $200 or less. They also have great pashminas. It is a wonderful place. Hope you have lots of fun!

Posted By n bowles on January 28, 2008, 12:52 PM

See a Tango show at Tanguera. Dinner at Mirasol de la Recova, near the Four Season Hotel, we paid US$75 for 4 people 2 bottles of wine. Caballeriza in Puerto Madero next to Las Lilas. Also try to take a trip to El Tigre.

Posted By Rocio Andrade on January 28, 2008, 1:03 PM

BsAs is fantastic! I've been there serveral times and can't ever get enough. First and most importanly, you must eat at Persicco and Volta, two great gelaterias. My fiance still dreams about the torrone flavor at Volta and I love every flavor available at Persicco. Persicco also deliver!
Great boutique shopping in Palermo Soho, Palermo Viejo, and Palermo Hollywood. I love Papelera Palermo with its fantastic paper products and fun setting. Sopa de Principe is a great little stuffed-toy shop, if you have any kids to buy for. Humawaca has great leather goods, in funky, original styles. Outside of the Palermos are the shopping centers of Galerias Pacifico and Patio Bullrich. Much better than the standard American mall and well worth a visit. Patio Bullrich is in Recoleta which is the Upper East Side of BsAs and where the famous cemetery is. We bought a great 1920's bocce scoreboard from a lovely antique store called 30quarenta in the same area. Cora Groppo and Jessica Trossman are wonderful designers and should be visited. If you're ever in the need for gloves, be sure to check out Carpincho. Great shop with hundreds of lovely gloves to choose from. As far as food goes, you can't really go wrong. As far as food, we eat at Lomo whenever we go and have also tried Cabanas las Lilas for the touristy large meat encounter. I don't eat meat but my fiance said it was quite good. We were hugely disappointed by Olsen but it could have just been an off night. I would suggest a chowhound search for the new restos that are worth visiting. I'd also suggest Gran Bar Danzon and Bar Uriarte. Have a wonderful time! It's hard not to...

Posted By Leah Zueger on January 28, 2008, 1:06 PM

For a wonderful gourmet meal in a private home you might checkout casasaltshaker.com Several nights a week chef Dan Perlman( who is from the United States) hosts a dinner for a maximum of 12 guests in his home. He charges 75 pesos for the meal and he will do wine pairing for an additional charge. The evening I attended there were guests from the United States, Great Britian, Argentina, and Australia. It was a wonderful meal and fantastic interaction amongst fellow travelers. The chef Dan Perlman has written an english/spanish food and wine dictionary, along with numerous dining articles and restaurant reviews. Even if you dont choose to dine there just explore his web site which will provide you a wealth of travel information for your upcoming trip.

Posted By john on January 28, 2008, 1:08 PM

I was in Buenos Aires in September and have two musts:

1. The restaurant La Cabrerra is absolutely amazing. The best steak I have ever had, fantastic service, great sides and wine and all at a small price. We paid about $125 for four people - each with their own steaks, sides and a total of 3 bottles of Malbec.

2. If you are in the market for a tailor made suit, visit Alex Reyes. I bought two suits, each costing about $300 and they were extremely well made. I went in the Friday I arrived, returned the enxt day for a first fitting, and a week later he delivered them to my hotel before I left for the airport.

The only negative: He speaks two words of English (blue & black). So know Spanish or take a translator. I got by okay without - using visuals, motions, etc. But would have loved a translator!

Alex Reyes
Beruti 3080 ( Palermo, 3 block from Alto Palermo shooping)
Phone: 5411 - 4 823 3226

Posted By Kris Crockett on January 28, 2008, 1:11 PM

While in BA, do not miss having dinner at "Los Anos Locos".It is located along the river on Costanera Norte. Steak, steak, steak, fries and a token salad will put a smile on anyone face. It is always packed from ten to two, but you can usually slip in at about eight to get a good table for the evening.

Posted By Arizona W. Barnhill on January 28, 2008, 1:11 PM

Definitely visit the San Telmo section of the city on the weekend, where they have a huge flea market. I visited on my last day in BA, a Saturday, and wish I could have spent more time there. Great place to pick up wonderful souvenirs as well as things for yourself.
Recoleta is a gorgeous neighborhood, Palermo is very funky and cool! There is a great design mall in REcoleta which tons of home design stores. And you can have your purchases shipped from there! take advantage of the great exchange rate and shop away!
enjoy your trip!

Posted By Kerry on January 28, 2008, 1:16 PM

Great but short time in Buenos Aires last February. One precaution is to be VERY alert for pickpockets. I lost a favorite money clip with all my local money. We talked to others on our curise ship that had even worse experiences.
Be aware of multiple people working together.

Posted By James B Godshalk Jr on January 28, 2008, 1:24 PM

I recommend Bar Uriarte (in Palermo Soho) for gorgeous cocktails and even better food. It's a modern space with bright orange colors; the kitchen open to the front windows. Beautiful people were enjoying a chic art opening above the dining area.

Posted By Jason Morgan on January 28, 2008, 1:30 PM

I would recommend spending an afternoon in nearby Colonia, Uraguay. It's a short ferry ride away -- maybe 45min -- and was a welcome respite from the hectic pace of cosmopolitan BA.

The town is a small fishing port, with charming galleries and cobblestone streets. I sat at an outside cafe in the main square where I dined on fresh paella and soaked in the sun until I decided to catch the ferry back for a night on the town in Buenos Aires. It was one of my favorite days in the area!

Posted By Ally Miola on January 28, 2008, 1:40 PM

My sister and I caught the Tango show at El Viejo Almacen - and while it might have been a little tourist-y, it was fantastic! If you're into art, there's a great gallery on Florida Street -Galeria Museo Aguilar (Florida 950) and it features all local artists. Tip: some of the artists showcase their art at the Feria San Telmo on Sundays and it's A LOT less expensive. ENJOY!!

Posted By Molly Rabinovitz on January 28, 2008, 1:41 PM

For great leather shopping-everything from belts,wallets, purses, luggage, shoes to jackets, slacks, and coats- go to Rodriguez Leather factory outside BA. Ask your hotel to call and they will send a car to pick you up. The carpincho (cappybara) is well worth the trip.

Posted By Sharon Shinsky on January 28, 2008, 2:22 PM

It occurs to me that I should post this BA list on my website...but until then, here's my list. I'll make a separate post for Mendoza. I could move there tomorrow!

My more thorough shopping was in Palermo Viejo, so that's what I can speak to.
some shopping advice:
ASK for your size as they often have only one size on the rack
DON'T HESITATE because it will most likely be gone the following day

Juana de Arco
El Salvador 4768
arts & crafts style clothes

Maria Cher Estudio
El Salvador 4714
not my style, young, very urban

Varanasi
El Salvador 4761
gorgeous skirts, tops and dresses in velvet, silk and taffeta

Humawaca
El Salvador 4692
fun, funky purses in leather and pony; very utilitarian
(I'm in love with the large, green pony bag for $550 pesos!!!)

Maria Martha Faccinelli
El Salvador 4741
great cocktail dresses, soft fabrics

Mishka
El Salvador 4673
everyone raved about their shoes but i didn't like them

Salispuedes
Honduras 4814
a little pricey but some good finds; i bought a great top there

Condimentos (accessories)
Honduras 4874
i made 2 trips here; love love love the selection

Uma
Honduras 5225
nice leather skirts and jackets, very feminine

Casandra Sheko
Serrano & Gorotti
pretty woven things; fun rings

Mariano Toledo
Armenia 1564
couture; cute shoes; bad service

Josefina Ferroni
Armenia 1471
cool colors, not my style; disappointed in shoes

Objectos Borneo / Doble Sentido
Niceto Vega 5067
artists collective; i got some ADORABLE flats with zippers there

SoldBA
Costa Rica 4645
artists collective; fun & young; good music store/dj picks

Prune
they are on every 5th corner (i'm exaggerating but you'll find one)
soft leather jackets and bags

Chelo Combina
Malabia 1632 in Palermo Soho
Although they have mostly women's styles, they do have some gorgeous
men's jackets. I had a rouched leather vest made in 2 days!

EATING reccos
Dinner >>>

You MUST go have dinner here:
Desde el Alma
Honduras @ Godoy Cruz in Palermo Viejo
4831-5812
It was the most divine food I ate in BA.

el Diamante
Malabia 1688
don't get the ceviche or calimari (it sucks) but the lamb was great.
good wine selection; bad cocktails. before dinner, get drinks on the
roof deck!

Casa Cruz
Uriarte 1658
very schwanky! dress up. i only had drinks there, not the food. it's a "scene"

Social Paraiso
Honduras 5182
"new" Argentinian cuisine; very romantic
Bar 6
Armenia 1676
eat @ bar to meet people; good for lunch or dinner; hang out

Uriarte
Uriarte 1572
v nice place; good food, nice ambiance

Lunch >>>
Mama Racha
Costa Rica & Armenia
good veg ravioli

Bar el Taller
Honduras & Serrano
coffee joint, people watching

Mark's Deli
El Salvador 4701
great sandwiches, lemonade, wine; hang for days

La Finca
Costa Rica 4615
great wine bar; tasting menu

REST/BAR in Recoleta you must go to >>>
Milion
it's gorgeous

Posted By Adrienne Matt on January 28, 2008, 2:44 PM

I flew to Mendoza from BA because I wanted to spend the time exploring and drinking. I handpicked some wineries but somehow found out about The Vines of Mendoza, a label-agnostic wine tasting boutique in downtown Mendoza (similar to Los Olivos Tasting room in Central California).

Started by 2 Californians and an Argentinian winemaker, they also offer wine tours. Select the wineries you like and they will create your itinerary, hire you a driver and make lunch and dinner (and spa) reservations to fill your day. I experienced 4 amazing days, visiting all 3 wine regions. And this service is FREE!
http://www.vinesofmendoza.com/
No, I don't work for them (but maybe I should! -- tell them I sent you).

My driver was a lovely man who forced me to practice speaking Spanish to him without my phrasebook(!). The conversation made the travel time thoroughly enjoyable and improved my speaking.

I visited one winery in the morning, lunch, 2 wineries in the afternoon then dinner. The wine geek in me was thrilled with the private tours (often I was the only person on the property who was not an employee) and barrel tastings(!). I came home with 9 bottles. I brought my own styrofoam wine box but some will pack for you. The better wine shops in BA will have the right boxes for airplane travel.
Enjoy!

Posted By Adrienne Matt on January 28, 2008, 3:02 PM

I noticed these were mentioned in the long list above, but some of my favorites:

Casa Cruz was the single best restaurant we ate at all week, and we tried many of the high-end ones (ok, ok, not the most "local" experience, but with the prices for eating out in NYC so crazy now, how could I resist amazing meals at 1/3 the price?). Amazing, slightly experimental food--but I was with my middle-aged parents and they didn't find it off-putting. The space is gorgeous, and the cocktails incredible--have the German (but pronouced Herman), I think it's called.

I loved the shoes at Mishka, also mentioned above--they are so well-made and stylish. I wear my black patent-leather flats I got there all the time. Just wandering around the Palermo area, I found a ton of stuff--can't remember the names of all the stores now.

Posted By Katie on January 28, 2008, 3:07 PM

I second Adrienne's Milion recommendation. It's wonderful. Go at night, because it's far more beautiful by candlelight. I'd also recommend Bar 6, which is in Palermo. They have nice brunches, and it's also a great place to stop for a snack or a coffee after shopping. (There are loads cute stores in the surrounding area.)

The restaurant Faith mentioned might be Lola.

Posted By Amy Zimmer on January 28, 2008, 3:31 PM

It was VERY hot when I was in BSAS last February but perfect in Mendoza. You should check and see if you're there while the wine harvest festival is going on.

-Bar Uriarte

-Gran Bar Danzon, if they have it, you must try Bodegas Enrique Foster Reserva 2003 Malbec. Impeccable!

-Novecento, though you can go in NY as well.

-Faena Hotel and Universe is worth checking out for a drink as it is incredibly beautiful though a bit out of the way.

In Mendoza:

-1884 FRANCIS MALLMAN, unbelieveable space and food.

Posted By Barbara Huber on January 28, 2008, 3:54 PM

Restaurant: Other than fancy restaurants, also try Siga la Vaca -- an all-you-can-eat eatery featuring authentic Argentinean BBQ. It's in Puerto Madero and it's one of the locals' favorites. Get there before 8pm the latest if you don’t want to wait. After 9pm, it's jam-packed with patrons.

Excursions: If you do decide to take a ferry ride to the sleepy Colonia del Sacramento town in Uruguay, remember their time zone is one hour ahead. Lots of tourists missed their return ferry rides!

Shopping: My favorite leather good store is Prüne (located at both Patio Bullrich and Galerías Pacífico shopping malls), but beware that half of their products are synthetic leather. One associate was very nice enough to point that out. Another good leather store: Blaque on Avenida Florida.

Tax Refund and Airport Exit Tax: Don't forget to ask for tax refund on qualifying purchases -- and remember to get your receipts stamped at the airport on your way out. So arrive early! Also, there's an USD18 (if I remembered correctly) airport exit tax payable at the airport.

Safety: It's our second time in BA in the past 3 years and we never had any safety issues or concerns but it’s always good to be cautious. Have a fun trip!!

Posted By Yvonne Chang on January 28, 2008, 3:58 PM

Do yourself a favor.
Forget all these other folks vacations and create your OWN trip and memories. Don't forget to talk to the locals. Carry the right attitude. FUN

Posted By kerry ruffridge on January 28, 2008, 4:02 PM

There are so many good restaurants, in the downtown area on LaValle there is La Estancia where many dignitaries eat, also El Palacio de la Papa Frita is on the same street. Then a fun place with great meat is Siga la Vaca in Puerto Madero--it is all you can eat and the meat is awesome especially bife de chorizo, there is usually a wait of 30 minutes or more. Lunch was about $10 and dinner $13. There is also Bice in Puerto Madero there are a few in the world-NYC-Palm Beach-Tokyo, it is 1/3 the price compared to Bice in Palm Beach(Italian). For pizza La Roma is touted to be the best, it is good but very different from American pizza.

Posted By Doug on January 28, 2008, 4:16 PM

I recommend the English speaking tour of Recoleta Cemetery, check with hotel etc for time. Also if the remodeling is completed, go on the English speaking tour of the Teatro Colon. Grand Old World Opera House.

Posted By Gary Cothran on January 28, 2008, 4:34 PM

Restaurants in Buenos Aires: SUCRE way out in Palermo, is excellent. Also TOMO UNO restaurant in a hotel right on the huge wide street, which I think is Nuevo de Julio.
Shopping: Patio Bullrich has a branch of Casa Lopez for lovely leather handbags.

In Mendoza: Dinner at the Park Hyatt Restaurant was super, and dinner at the Francis Mallman restaurant at the Bodega Escorihuela was even better. It's a beautiful place, in every way.
We enjoyed the Club Tapiz winery for lunch, and they had the best wine we tasted (white)
Hope this helps - Mendoza was most interesting.

Posted By Elizabeth K. Shequine on January 28, 2008, 5:17 PM

I have visited BA twice and would go again tomorrow. It is one of the great cities in this world. The craft fair at Ricoletta on Saturday is definitely a highlight. The antiques fair plus food and entertainment on Sunday is a must. You will enjoy some of the shops at LaBoca but the color, people watching and lazing at an outdoor restraunt does not get better. By the way, spend some time under the tree at Ricoletta. You'll know the tree the minute you see it. Have a wonderful time!

Posted By Pat Glenn on January 28, 2008, 8:05 PM

Walk. Walk. Walk. And then walk some more. You will see dogs and people and dogs and places and people and dogs. Keep walking, stay alert, and walk everywhere. There is a cop every block on the main roads -- day and night. Just walk and enjoy and figure it all out for yourself.

Posted By Roger Stocker on January 28, 2008, 10:39 PM

Argentina is a cash economy. The big tourist hotels and swank restaurants take credit cards, but most places either don't or will stick you with a surcharge if you pay with one. Tax-dodging is an art in Argentina, which often means that if you pay cash and ask for a discount, you may get a nod, a wink, and 10 percent off.

Posted By Dennis Coggins on January 29, 2008, 5:51 AM

be careful when you think you've been hit with pigeon poop. the perps spray it on you and start helping you clean up.....but clean out your pockets!
for snacks try 'solo empanadas' for great meat pies. about 20 b.a. outlets. they deliver for tips.
often free entertainment on calle florida.
best tours are provided free by city tourist bureau.

Posted By tom webber on January 29, 2008, 11:35 AM

FOOD: I lived in Buenos Aires a couple years back and sadly a lot of my favorite restaurants have closed because of the deteriorating economy.
I would REALLY, REALLY avoid the tourist trap of the string of restaurants that overlook the Recoleta Cemetary. Quite overpriced and not very good at all. Siga la Vaca is quite good and is something of an institution as is La Brigada in San Telmo. A good restaurant guide to visit is http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar. There's an English translation and it's something of a trip advisor of restaurants. Portenos (the locals) review the restaurants and rate them.
One place I remember going to a lot was 788 Food Bar... a good place to lunch for their fab-priced quite-tasty meals. The restaurant is on Arenales 1877 in Recoleta.
GOOD QUALITY LEATHER: Buenos Aires is great for leather goods but some of the establishments take advantage of tourists, especially along Florida Street. I would recommend going to Palermo Soho... where a lot of the fashionable Portenos shop. I would HIGHLY recommend going to QARA... it's a small boutique leather shop that specializes in quality leather bags for women and men. The bags are hand made in a studio in Buenos Aires by people who know how to craft fine-quality bags. Here's their Web site: www.qara.com. They're in Palermo Soho.. on Gurruchaga 1548. Their bags are AMAZING and have gotten quite good play in some media lately.

Posted By Recolata Gal on January 29, 2008, 5:26 PM

Some of the best meals we had in Buenos Aires were places we just stumbled upon. It's hard to get a bad meal there, especially considering the prices. It's wonderful to be able to order a bottle of wine with every meal and not pay the inflated prices we're used to here.

In Mendoza, don't try to go winery hopping on your own. Hook up with a good tour (there are a few to choose from) where they will make the necessary appointments and get you into places where someone who speaks English can show and pour. It is REALLY spread out and you need to be with someone who has contacts and knows where they are going. This might be helpful:
http://www.luxurylatinamerica.com/argentina/mendoza.html

Posted By Tim L. on January 29, 2008, 5:40 PM

Buenos Aires is beautiful. Don't wear jeans or you'll totally stand out as an American. And for gay male travelers, don't miss La Recoleta Cemetery. It's very beautiful and, odd as it may seem, a wonderful place to meet other gay men.

Posted By russ on January 29, 2008, 6:54 PM

I am a local so I'll recommend completely un-touristy restaurants I love:
In the "Las Cañitas" area I suggest "De la Ostia" very gourmet and delicious food.

For BA-style pizza in the downtown area:
"Las Cuartetas", or "El Cuartito".

Finally for the best empanadas in town:
"La Americana" close to the Congress.

All those places, besides being the best very convenient. An average meal will cost you between 10 and 20 dollars.

Posted By Pablo B on January 29, 2008, 9:05 PM

In San Telmo on Defensa there is a restaurant called DesNivel that has fabulous, cheap food. We went there 3 times in 10 days. Share a steak and be sure to get the best fries ever - I still dream about them! Then get the lemon sorbet in champagne for dessert. Any night after 11 there is a lineup, so plan ahead!

Posted By yuki on January 30, 2008, 2:25 PM

I just returned from living in S. America (Montevideo, Uruguay) for 3 months. I visited BsAs and Mendoza while I was there. If you can take a side trip to Uruguay, I recommend flying to Punta del Este and driving to Jose Ignacio - simply amazing. My favorite recommendations for Buenos Aires and Mendoza are:

BsAs:
Dinner: Cabana Las Lilas - restaurant in Puerto Madero, which is more touristy than other areas, but the meals (steak, of course) was absolutely amazing. Even the locals that I knew there had not had a better steak.

Shopping: Prune and Skin - Hands down the best quality, modern designs in beautiful leather. You can find both at Galleria Pacifico and on Calle Florida.

Market: San Telmo market on Sunday is fabulous. It's an antique market in the old Italian part of town with tango being played and danced in the streets. Don't miss it!

Mendoza:
Wine Tour: Ampora Wine Tours is amazing. They take you to boutique wineries, not the big commercial ones. One winery we went to only does tours with Ampora. The owner and wine maker, himself, gave us a tour and our tasting was at his mother's house on the property. It doesn't get better than that.

Dinner: Azafran - all I can say is that it's amazing. I still think about that dinner.

Posted By Katie on February 3, 2008, 11:38 AM

I just wanted to take a moment and share my experience in Mendoza, Argentina. Mendoza is probably the most perfect place to take a closer look at Argentine wines. It is a great city, there are a lot of things to do and the people is friendly and helpful.
I done an extensive research on the Mendoza´s official website (www.turismo.mendoza.gov.ar) looking for some helpful information about Mendoza wine country.
We also contacted Mendoza Holidays company in order to organize a special program of wine tasting to help celebrate our anniversary. I was impressed with their follow through after I had contacted them for a price quote, which was extremely fair. They spent hours with me on the phone and via email creating and re-adjusting the plan for my husband and I.
They promised a personalized, private, romantic wine tour for our anniversary.
The vineyards we visited were very nice and all of the people involved in all our tours were very knowledgeable and pleased to be around. One of the wineries we visited is Bonfanti, a gourmet winery which we believe has one of the most personal and private tour of all of the wineries in Mendoza, as we were guided by a family member of the owner.
Although our trip was short, we had unique wine experiences that we definitely would not have otherwise had.
Our trip to the mountains was amazing. Although the weather was not to our favor, this will always be a trip that I will hold close to my heart. The High Mountain tour & vineyards which Mendoza Holidays provided us, was one of the most beautiful tours. The magnificence of Andes, combined with the vineyards was an unforgettable experience.
I will never forget my trip to Mendoza as it was the most exhilarating trips I have ever had.
All the best from sunny Salvador !

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Hi there..just got back from Buenos Aires staying in Recoleta. Beautiful city. We did get robbed of our money and credit credit cards. It happened all so fast. Please do not let anyone help you when you feel like you have gotten sprayed. They do this to put up a front and will rob you of your stuff. Do not let the short darker skinned people close by as these are many of the criminals that will prey on you. Sorry for having to say this...learned it the hard way. Just DO NOT LET someone come up to help you!!! Keep your personal space open!!

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